Thursday, July 30, 2009

best party city?

Just a quick post to share a CNN news piece from yesterday.... and a bit of validation of my writings on Beirut as a party city:



In the event the video isn't loading properly, check it out on CNN's Site.

(Courtesy of my facebook friends Zeina and Fadi who were quick to post this!)

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

what type of company do venture capitalists fund?

A few weeks ago I was introduced by my friend Sami Shalabi to the ArabCrunch blogger Gaith Saqer. I met with him at Illy's coffee shop off of Rainbow Street. Over a coffee, he proceeded to tell me all about the entrepreneurial climate in the region, new gadgets on the market, and regional events he helped organize. This guy has his fingers on the pulse of technology and entrepreneurship initiatives in the region and reports on them at Arab Crunch. He invited me to guest author a post on his blog, and I readily accepted. Here it is. I hope you enjoy it:
What Type of Company do Venture Capitalists Fund?.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

nascent venture industry

I've been meeting with various capital providers in Jordan and also speaking with some in other parts of the region. My primary role with Endeavor is to discover, profile and establish relationships with these capital providers. The hope is that they volunteer their time as VentureCorps Mentors for our Endeavor Entrepreneurs and that they can potentially be providers of capital to the entrepreneurs who need it. In exchange they get unfettered access to entrepreneurs who have been through a rigorous 5-stage selection process and could be great investment opportunities, as well as access to the Endeavor network and events.

By now I think I know every venture capital firm in Jordan. I've met with most of them and will be meeting with the rest this week or next. I've also met with several funds outside of Jordan and know of most of the rest. As such, I can say from experience, the venture industry in the region is nascent at best.

First, many "funds" aren't actually funds. That is, they actually don't have any money. People typically start venture advisory practices, providing fee-for-consulting services to entrepreneurs, in order to earn a living while they try to raise capital. Oftentimes investors aren't used venture terms and time horizons. They don't want to tie up their capital in a fund. Or they don't have the appetite for venture risk. Thus, often these firms are unable to raise capital so they continue operating as an advisory business. If an investment opportunity arises, they pool their network to see if they can find investors.

Second, even the firms who actually have capital and are structured as a venture fund typically find that it is extremely difficult to operate as a venture capitalist. Now the problem has to do with the entrepreneurs themselves. Entrepreneurs in the region simply lack an understanding of venture capital terms. They are unable to grasp concepts like right of first refusal, drag along provisions, preferred stock, participating features, veto rights, etc. Further, their "advisors" don't seem to be properly preparing them for these types of discussions; perhaps because the advisors themselves aren't fully versed in this language.

Third, there are some Islamic funds which follow shari'a law. Essentially, all this means is that the companies in which they invest cannot engage in certain unallowable activities that involve: gambling, alcohol, and charging or paying interest. It also means the fund itself can't structure securities that have debt characteristics. The existence of such funds is good since they provide an alternative for entrepreneurs who prefer to seek Shari'a compliant funding. However, for other entrepreneurs, they can mean a longer vetting process with unecessary restrictions. Additionally, venture capitalists often incorporate debt-like characteristics in their securities as a way of lessening the downside risk. So, to the extent Islamic funds cannot afford themselves this flexibility, they might involve themselves in a riskier type of investing than other venture funds.

This leads me to believe that while initiatives such as the Queen Rania Center for Entrepreneurship (QRCE) are quite admirable, there is still a long way to go. Largely, government initiatives are encouraging very early stage entrepreneurship. They are teaching Jordan's educated how to venture out on their own and build a real business. For example, I attended a very well-run and well attended QRCE seminar yesterday on Blue Ocean Strategy. The presenter was knowledgable, the audience engaged. Interestingly, I estimate the audience was 30%-40% women, and the women were much more vocal and interactive than the men. While these early stage initiatives are necessary, they are not sufficient. Further effort is needed to help entrepreneurs move beyond the early stage and build an environment where they have access to customers, partners and investors.

There is a role for an organization like Endeavor, which is focused on more established entrepreneurs who can employ many people and serve as role models for other aspiring entrepreneurs. Endeavor's high profile local board and VentureCorp gives it clout in the region. It can engage with the few true venture funds, verse its entrepreneurs in venture language and educate them on the benefits of VC. It can then hold up these transactions as successful examples for others to follow - both budding entrepreneurs and budding investors.

Additionally, more needs to be done on the policy side: to encourage venture investing, to headquarter more established businesses to the region as a way of creating an entrenched base of potential partners and acquirers for younger companies, and to ease registration and tax filing requirements for existing businesses.

Already, Jordanians who have built themselves a career in the West are returning to Jordan to give back to society. Ennis Rimawi of Catalyst PE returned a few years ago from Boston and Mohammed Alzubi of Middle East Venture Partners just returned from Silicon Valley. He informs me all of his belongings are in a crate somewhere in the middle of the ocean (not quite sure which ocean). People return full of hope and excitement, often to be disappointed by the challenges of reality on the ground. However, with a bit of friendly government policy, initiatives like the QRCE and the El-Hassan Science City, and organizations like Endeavor trying to guide constituents in the right direction, the Ennises and Mohammeds of Jordan might find some success here after all.

Saturday, July 25, 2009

an adventure trip and the tourism industry



Prior to departing for my mid-summer travels, I went on an incredible day trip just a 45 minute drive outside of Amman. The day started at 10am with a drive out to Wadi Mujib, a canyon and nature reserve southeast of Amman. Wadi Mujib offers several trails, including a two-hour guided rock-climbing trail, a seven-hour combination adventure trail, and a three-hour waterfall hiking trail. We did the latter, and it was quite an adventure. We had to forge against rapids, often using previously set ropes for support. We climbed up smaller falls along the way and sometimes leaped from one slippery rock to another, hopeful not to slip and fall into the fast-moving rapids below. The hike was challenging and rewarding, both because of the physical struggle and the lovely waterfall greeting us at the end. At several points I thought I would have to quit and head back, but I’m very happy I stuck through it. It’s unlikely I would have made it without the help of the guys who were with me.







After the hike we took a 15-minute drive to the Movenpik hotel resort at the Dead Sea and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon by the infinity pool, a therapeutic dip in the dead sea and a full body natural dead sea mud mask. We ended the day with a drive to the cliffs to watch the sunset before heading back to Amman for a chicken shawarma dinner and a good night’s sleep.





The trip got me thinking about the state of the tourism industry in Jordan. The breadth and depth of tourist attractions in Jordan are quite remarkable, particularly considering how much of the Country is dry dessert land. Wadi Mujib is one of many wadis and not even among the more popular sites in Jordan. The country is full of rich history. However despite recent efforts by the monarchy, Jordan has failed to really capitalize on the potential of a tourism industry here.


The sites are too many to list, but I'll cover all of the main highlights:

  • Petra is the ancient city of the Nabateans, entirely carved into the mountains, complete with sewege and drainage systems. Petra, well-known to Westerners as the famous setting of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, is one of the new 7 wonders of the world. Carved into beautiful pink rock, this vast hidden city was discovered by Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. Petra has something to offer to everyone - an active hike up to the monastary, rock climbing trails for the more adventurous, and horse or donkey rides for the less mobile.

  • Wadi Rum is a desert full of mountains and hills. It's a popular place to go camping with the bedouins who will make dinner and coffee for you. It's also popular for a variety of sports and rock climbing.

  • Natural reserves like Wadi Mujib: Dana, Azraq Wetland and Shawmari. However, Wadi Mujib is distinct in being the lowest nature reserve in the world, and also the one with the most adventures to offer.

  • Roman ruins: Umm Qais is an ancient roman city that boasts a gorgeous view of the Golan Heights. Jerash is another ancient roman city in the North famous for its beautiful old roman architecture. Jerash is also home to the annual Jerash Music and Arts Festival.

  • Castles: Ajlun - with the famous Islamic Al Rabadh castle, and Karak from the times of Salah Al Din.

  • Amman itself offers the Roman Theater, various museums, lots of arts, and the dead sea scrolls.

  • Hamamat Ma'een - hot springs about 30 minutes outside of Amman.

  • Religious sites: The floor mosaic map of the early Byzantine St. George's Church in Madaba; Mt. Nebo where Moses was said to have viewed the promised land; and the Jordan River where Jesus Christ was babptised by John the Baptist.

  • Water: The Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth, has been developed with beautiful resorts. And Aqaba, at the Red Sea, has gorgeous coral reefs that are the best I've seen for snorkling and diving.


  • I'm very lucky to have done everything on the list above except for Wadi Rum, Karak and some of the museums. Though I did most of it nine years ago when I studied Arabic in Jordan for a summer.

    The monarchy is making a concerted effort to promote Jordan as a tourist destination. King Abdallah even created a promotional video of himself braving the Wadi Mujib trails! Places like the Dead Sea, Maeen Hot Springs and the Red Sea are much more developed than when I last visited 9 years ago.

    Additionally, some interesting entrepreneurs have decided to leverage Jordan's natural sites in building their companies. For example, one of the companies incubated at the El-Hassan Science City provides electronic tour guides of many of the sites in over 20 languages. As another example, Endeavor Jordan recently met with a company that offers corporate retreats and team building programs. The company holds its programs all over the country at some of the sites mentioned above. It is also building for itself an adventure tourism niche, as it charts brand new adventure courses in previously uncharted territory!

    I'm not sure why Jordan's tourism industry hasn't boomed. At this point, I view Jordan as a true diamond in the rough in terms of a tourist destination. Perhaps people are afraid of the region (though I find it incredibly safe here). Perhaps the government needs to step up its promotion efforts even further. Perhaps its up to the private sector to advertise all that Jordan has to offer. Either way, I think Jordan will be one of the next up and coming tourist destinations.

    Wednesday, July 22, 2009

    a real arab city

    I took a 24-hour detour to Damascus (Al Sham as the Arabs call it), and I was blown away. Admittedly, I had never been to Sham and didn't know much about the City. Further, when I would mention to a Lebanese person that I was going to Sham, the typical response was, with nose up in the air and a downward lip curl, "Oh...why do you want to go there?" as if it's a desolate backwards place that the refined Lebanese do not visit.

    Thus, to my surprise, Sham is simply amazing. It's a beautiful, clean city that is full of life and so much history. What I liked most is that people are genuine; truly genuine in the full sense of the word. In Beirut and Amman everyone wants to be "Western." It's as if they work hard to deny their heritage in order to be what they perceive as something "better" - more American or European. In Sham, this is not the case. People are true to who they are and proud to be Syrian. They are also generally well-educated, friendly, pleasant; simply top-class.


    (From top left, clockwise) Our hotel courtyard, Old City, Ummayad Mosque, Old City Souq

    Sham is what I dream a real Arab city should be. Full of beautiful architecture that tells its rich history, respectful of its heritage; yet modern, intellectual and comfortable. The University of Damascus, with over 85,000 students, is at the heart of the City. Society is very open. People from a mix of religions coexist and collaborate daily.

    With so little time, I didn't have a chance to experience its nightlife. But a close friend who was visiting at the same time stayed a couple of extra days and partied with a Syrian friend, the Syrian way. When he went home at 4am, his friends were still going strong. He explained it as the most fun he had during his entire trek through the Arab World. Fun clubs, great music, reasonably-priced alcohol, approachable people. And the girls.... Compared to the often harsh glamour of Lebanon, the girls have a delicate natural beauty. They seem less preoccupied with their appearance and more interested with the quality of conversation.

    The food is also amazing. I believe the Syrian kitchen is unparalleled in the Arab World. Some of my Palestinian and Lebanese friends may beg to differ, but as a Palestinian myself, I think the Syrian kitchen is #1. I'll share with you one of the Syrian delicacies "Habara Neye" (raw meat). The pictures from left to right show the progression from serving plate presentation, to composed on my plate, to fully eaten - all in under 5 minutes. Yum!


    In all, this is definitely a place I want to return to and experience more fully. As harsh as this may sound, I think Damascus puts the rest of the Arab world to shame.

    Tuesday, July 21, 2009

    other entrepreneurial initiatives

    I want to give mention to other initiatives supporting entrepreneurs in Lebanon:

    1. American University of Beirut Olyan School of Business Entrepreneurship Center. This Center has received $5 million in start-up funding from the Al-Maktoum Foundation. Tony Feghali, PhD and Lecturer in Business Information, is the Director of Corporate Relations at the Business School and interim Director of the Entrepreneurship Center. He's energetic, pragmatic, and modest. He's the kind of guy that believes in what he is doing and isn't above working to get done whatever needs to get done. Tony is wary of all of the entrepreneurship competitions in the region. "I don't know if they are good or bad," he said. In Tony's opinion, there is so much buzz around these competitions but little focus on what institutional and policy change is needed to help these entrepreneurs succeed. I agree with him. I've seen lots of competitions but little discussion of policy. During the Spring semester, he hopes to have a gathering of all regional entities interested in promoting entrepreneurship to discuss these issues: venture funds, non-profits, government entities, and entrepreneurs. Tony also offered to be a regional advisor for my masters thesis and we're applying to analyze data and author a report for an organization that just conducted some exciting regional surveys on entrepreneurship. I hope we win the RFP bid. I'm looking forward to working with him.


    AUB Main Gate at Night

    2. The Rootspace (http://www.therootspace.org/). This non-profit supports entrepreneurship, innovation and social entrepreneurship in Lebanon. The organization organized Global Entrepreneurship Week events in Lebanon, provides an online collaborative space for entrepreneurs and provides consulting services to small businesses and NGOs. Its founder, David Munir Nabti, is also a graduate student at AUB. We have very similar regional interests and might work together on a project with Tony.

    3. The Bader Young Entrepreneurs. I mentioned them in my last blog post. You can check them out here: http://www.baderlebanon.com/. I briefly met Bader's Director, Joelle Yazbeck, and plan to connect with her again.

    4. Capital Trust - MENAVEST and EuroMena Funds. This European investment bank and investor has focused on the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region. They have three funds investing in growth-stage opportunities across the region and seek emerging market returns over the medium to long term. They particularly look for companies with the potential to scale from a single country market to a regional market, and they help them to realize this potential. Thus, their aim is to take already established entrepreneurs to the next level. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to meet with anyone from Capital Trust but am tyring to set up a conference call with them.

    5. Manara Capital (http://www.manaracapital.com/). This is a family fund investing in the Middle East, Europe and the U.S. As a family fund, their mandate is very broad. They invest across geographies, industries and stages of companies, investing in both private and public entities. Thus, their aim isn't to support entrepreneurs per se. However, the guys managing the fund are smart investors and support of entrepreneurs is often a by-product of their activities. For example, as investors in Al Rifai Roastery, the leading provider of nuts in the Arab World, they are helping the Company expand globally.

    Monday, July 20, 2009

    nothing ventured nothing gained

    "It's the office building right behind the large smashed building," said Nagy (pronounced Na-Jee) on the phone. "You can't miss it. See you at 10:30."

    Indeed I didn't miss it. I walked directly into his office, which in scrappy start-up fashion had no receptionist, to the sounds of Nagy ending a Skype call with Paris. He greeted me enthusiastically, "Can I offer you some tea? We are tea fanatics around here. I have 80 different types of speciality teas."

    Luckily, I love tea. "Yes please," I said. "Choose according to your taste." He served me a delicious green tea, apparently from China, which he steeped for me himself.

    "I'm starting a company that sells speciality teas," He continued. "We're trying to prove that with the right marketing and execution, you can easily build a successful company out of Lebanon."

    Nagy is an entrepreneur turned venture capitalist running the Building Block Equity Fund with his partner Fadi Daou. I've written about how Lebanon is a land of "flash and no cash" and how there's little opportunity here. Together, this duo is trying to change that. They recognize the large gap between (1) microfinance and small business loans available for the mom & pop shops and (2) private equity available (largely from outside of Lebanon) to fund large companies and real estate development projects. The entrepreneur who wants to build a scalable growth business is simply out of luck unless he has large sums of family money to support him.

    "We've screened over 70 companies during the past year," said Nagy. "If a company is not venture-fundable, we still try to help them by connecting them to the right people or providing some strategic guidance." Nagy and Fadi are also involved with the Bader Young Entrepreneurs Program, which provides mentor ship and connections for young entrepreneurs and promotes entrepreneurship education in unversities in Lebanon. Often, Nagy and Fadi guide entrepreneurs to the Bader program for help.

    The Building Block Equity Fund itself is structured as a "real" venture fund and has already made several investments with several more in the pipeline. It has limited partners, standard fund terms, and invests using standard preferred securities. This is actually rare to see in the Levant. Most of the other funds I have met with are either (or a combination of):

    1. All family money. Thus funds are all coming from one source and often managed by family members. This typically means the fund mandate is very broad and the investment strategy lacks focus.

    2. Evergreen. There are no capital commitments on the part of investors. As opportunities come up, investors have the option to fund. This means there is no critical mass of capital dedicated to funding a particular investment strategy.

    3. Not raised. Surprisingly, many operational funds haven't actually raised most of their capital yet. An example is a fund with a $50m goal that only has $2-$5m of capital committed for investment. It's very difficult to have an investment strategy with risk diversified across various types or stages of companies when the amount of capital and number of possible investments is unknown. This can lead to a failure of the venture model before it is even given a chance to succeed. Very bad for a region just starting to experiment with venture capital. I'll write more about this problem later.

    In my opinion, the Building Block Fund has the right strategy: take a pool of committed capital and invest it in early and growth stage Lebanese and Lebanese-related companies with charismatic entrepreneurs and the potential to scale. Granted, narrow geographic focus in a country that has been prone to conflict in the recent past is risky. However, if your goal is to promote economic development in Lebanon via entrepreneurship, this is the right way to do it. And who better to execute on the strategy and manage the risk involved than a couple of experienced Lebanese entrepreneurs and investors?

    I'll keep my eye on the Building Block Equity Fund during the next few years. I anticipate hearing some good news coming out of their portfolio companies.

    Saturday, July 18, 2009

    a beautiful country

    Today is my first wedding anniversary. In celebration of that, my husband and I spent the past two weeks in Lebanon. While I've mentioned in several posts how beautiful the Country is, I haven't done its beauty justice in pictures. Here are a few shots from some of the things we did together.



    Mountain View North of Beirut

    Seaside South of Beirut

    Mountainside North of Beirut

    Mountain Castle North of Beirut

    Newly Renovated Downtown

    Southern Landscape

    Southern Seaside Sunset

    Wednesday, July 15, 2009

    no opportunity

    Lebanon is packed. The airport, the ground border crossing, the streets, the tourist attractions, the restaurants, the clubs, the pools and beaches; all packed. Lebanon is such a vibrant country. So full of life and beauty. However, the energy of the place in the summer belies the true economic state of the country. Regardless of whom you speak to, the conversation often reverts back to the same statement, "there's no opportunity here."

    Out at dinner with some friends, I couldn't help but notice, as people sat with elbows on the table, the row of designer watches on both men and women: Cartier, Rolex; Tag Heurer was the low-end. Wine constantly flowing, vodka bottles bottomless, I had to wonder, "where is all of this money coming from ?!" Rooftop bars and restaurants are the "in" thing in Beirut. I think the Lebanese are so numbed by the wars they have been through that demolished buildings simply fade into the nighttime skyline. But to me, things look different. I've never seen a contrast as striking as a beautiful glowing bar against a backdrop of destruction:


    So where is all of the money coming from? How is it that the food and alcohol and designer watches are in such abundance while so many buildings remain destroyed and people continuously claim, "there is no opportunity?"

    Standing at a rooftop bar, I leaned over and asked a friend, "How many of these people are NOT living in Lebanon?"

    "90%," he responded. "Most of them are Lebanese, but very few actually live here."

    Most of the money in Lebanon is coming from outside of the Country - the US, Europe, and the Gulf. Many beach clubs and real estate developments are actually owned by people from the Gulf. Some are owned by a handful of traditionally wealthy Lebanese and Syrian families. But largerly, the self-made Lebanese made himself outside of Lebanon.

    This same friend told me that a recent college graduate is doing very well if he earns $1,000 per month. That's less than 1/4th of what a U.S. college graduate who is "doing very well" earns. However, the major cost of living components are very high. Apartments in Beirut cost $300-$400 per square foot - you can't buy anything decent for less than half a million dollars. Gas and cars are more expensive than in the U.S. And private school education is essentially required if one wants to go to college.

    The people are generally very well educated. But industries are small and there's little opportunity to build a business beyond family money. There is virtually no venture capital - Building Block Equity Fund is the only real venture fund I could find.

    While electricity is out 3 hours per day in Beirut and 12 hours per day in the South, politicians are busy playing to sectarian interests rather than working to fix the Country's problems.

    Having a drink at the rooftop bar, enjoying the energy of the place and the stunning Beirut skyline, my friend said, "Lebanon is such a rich and beautiful country. I love it!" He paused and continued, "If only there was opportunity here, I would come back."

    Sunday, July 12, 2009

    united under one sky

    "All of us under the Lebanese sky" (pictured) and "Our future together." These were two of new Lebanese Prime Minister Saad Hariri's campaign slogans during the June elections. And you can't miss them. They appear on billboards with bright blue sky backgrounds all over the country, particularly in the more Sunni areas. The slogans express a nice sentiment - that of unity, an undivided nation. But for a country with a sectarian government and fresh civil war scars, most visible of which are war-torn buildings all over Beirut City, the slogans are a bit ironic.

    When I talk to the Lebanese about Lebanese politics, they say that no candidate has a real political platform. The candidates don't discuss social or economic issues, or political reform. Rather, they use broad slogans like the ones mentioned above. "People simply vote along sectarian lines," they say.

    Lebanon's government is a parliamentary democracy structured under a framework of Confessionalism, whereby the highest offices are constitutionally reserved for representatives of certain religious communities. Thus the President must be a Maronite Christian, the Prime Minister a Sunni Muslim and the Speaker of Parliament a Shi'a Muslim. Seats in parliament are also divided as half Christian and half Muslim, with Druze considered Muslim. While the various Muslim and Druze parties tend to command loyalty, the Christians tend to be more divided.

    Thus, can a country with a sectarian political system by design, a 15-year history of civil war, and a new generation that continues to vote based on sectarian affiliation rather than political platform really be united under one sky? Traveling around the Country one clearly sees divisions based on the election posters in the area. The East and North are full of Hariri posters. The South is full of posters for the Shi'a Amal movement and for Hezbollah. Afterall, when the Lebanese government failed for years to provide basic services to villages in the South, it was Hezbollah as a civil organization that provided healthcare, education, infrastructure, and defense. Despite the fact that Sa'ad Al Hariri's March 14 Alliance won a majority of parliament seats (71 of 128), the Hezbollah and Amal-led March 6 Alliance won the popular vote (55% vs. 45%). Is this a nation united or a nation divided?

    War-torn buildings like this one abound in Beirut

    I have some reason to think things will gradually change in Lebanon. First, The Lebanese Army has strong and positive relations with the Hezbollah militia. It's the Lebanese Army that mans checkpoints throughout the South, not Hezbollah. Second, Lebanon was united in 2006 against the Israeli attacks. The Lebanese felt a sense of oneness against an aggressor, minimizing their own internal divisions. Third, Saad Al Hariri won the elections with his unity campaign. Perhaps the March 14 Alliance didn't win the popular vote, but election day was largely uneventful and the results were accepted by all sides. The violence that was so feared did not materialize. Finally, parliament passed a law requiring that all election posters be removed from the streets. Posters signify sectarian affiliation and the new government wants these visible symbols removed. Walking around Beirut one can already see where posters have been torn down.

    Thus, while some people might say Lebanon will always experience strong sectarianism and the new generation doesn't differ from the old, I disagree. I see signs of change. The change will be gradual. It will take more than one generation. But I think it is already coming.

    Sunday, July 5, 2009

    flash and no cash

    I quickly stamped my passport and grabbed my bag from baggage claim. The lines were long but not for Americans, so I managed to get through quickly. As I walked passed customs in a single file line with dozens of other people and headed for the exit, a couple of teenage girls handed me a shiny little flier: Crystal Night Club - Paris Hilton Party. Tickets: $100 VIP, $150 Prestige. "Paris, why are you following me around the world?" I thought to myself, "I don't care to see your skinny, skanky self everywhere I turn." As I walked through the double-doors I was greeted with the largest crowds I had ever seen in an airport arrival terminal. "Welcome to Lebanon!" I thought to myself. "The most beautiful land of flash and no cash."

    Three days later I had only seen a sliver of Lebanese society. Four night clubs, three nice restaurants, two beach resorts, and one newly renovated downtown. Valet parking abounds for $3. The majority of conversation is in English. The people are truly a cocktail. I don't even feel like I am in an Arab country.

    However, I did see some signs of the Country's poor infrastructure. Many bridges, beaches and power plants were destroyed by the Israelis during their 2006 war on Lebanon. Thus the country is borrowing electricity from Egypt and Syria, and the power is out for 3 hours every day, even in some office buildings. But the power never goes out at the nightclubs. After all, the expatriates, tourists and upper class Lebanese must be satisfied. Dancing at a rooftop club with the Beirut skyline extending along the water as far as the eye could see, my husband leaned over and told me that during the war people danced as missiles lit up the air. The Lebanese never miss a party!

    Wednesday Night - Bubbles Rooftop Club


    Thursday - La Plage Beach Club. In quintessential Lebanese style, the writing on the wooden planks in the background says: "It is ok for me to have everything I want."

    Thursday Night - Sky Bar. Rooftop club, outdoor air-conditioning, reservation only, $25 Belvedere Vodka drinks, beautiful Beirut skyline.

    Friday - Riviera Beach Club Party.

    Friday Night - Sky Bar Sean Kingston Performance.